![]() ![]() You become hyper aware of a lot of different things – the way the wave is breaking, timing, putting yourself in the right part of the barrel. “For me it’s sort of like time slows down. ![]() Some guys say it’s like being in the womb. “The barrel is really the ultimate ride for any surfer. “Surfing is my religion, if I have one,” he said. Surfing is more than a career for Slater – it’s a spiritual experience, providing solace and filling him with a sense of wonder at nature. They were just surfing and traveling and that’s really been the goal my whole life.” There were pro surfers who were my heroes, but those guys weren’t rich. “When I was eight or 10 years old I didn’t know that I could have a career from surfing. “I wanted to be Steve Martin when I was a kid. Indeed, Slater is one of the few professional surfers to have transcended the niche sports magazines to the society pages, appearing in dozens of films and starring in hit 1990s TV show Baywatch. Watch video: Looking for the perfect wave For Slater, it’s a journey that began as a child growing up in the surfing town of Cocoa Beach, in Florida.Īged 20 he became the youngest person to win the Surfing World Championship, smashing the record books again when he also became the oldest person to win the title at 39. ![]()
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